From Courtyard to Cascades

Last October, a gentle nudge from my friend CR turned into one of those trips that quietly stay with you. The plan was simple. A relaxed birding getaway to Mango Mulch, a lovely homestay run by her friends Ashwini and Sudhakar.

We timed our arrival perfectly for breakfast. Ashwini had kindly offered to cook for us before they headed out on their own vacation, and that meal alone was worth the early start. Warm food, easy conversation, and that familiar excitement of what the day might bring.

The plan was to explore the eight-acre property and see what birds turned up. But sometimes, birding has other ideas. With our hosts getting ready to leave and the place in a bit of transition mode, the birds seemed to have taken the day off too.

But Mango Mulch didn’t leave us empty-handed.

If not birds, then butterflies. And not just any, but a fluttering gathering of Blue Tigers, drifting lazily through the garden like they had nowhere else to be. Add to that the burst of flowers around the property, and the morning found its own rhythm.

With the bird list still waiting to be written, we decided to move on and try our luck elsewhere.

Shivanasamudra was calling.

A short drive later, the twin waterfalls, Gaganachukki and Bharachukki, took over the day. The calm of the morning gave way to the thunder of water, drifting mist, and finally, some bird activity to reward the patience.

Here are some frames from that day. A mix of blue wings, bright blooms, and roaring falls.

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Like always, we started early for the 150 km drive and rolled into Mango Mulch just in time for breakfast.

The home itself was a highlight even before we stepped out with our cameras. A traditional Thotti Mane, built around a sunken central courtyard. The thotti, a stone-lined tank, sat quietly at the heart of the house, surrounded by wooden pillars and open light filtering in from above.

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Light bounced gently off the red oxide floors, giving the whole space a calm, lived-in warmth. It felt like stepping into a different pace of time.

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Breakfast turned out to be a proper introduction to the place. A plate of hand-pressed, delicate rice noodles, served two ways.

On one side, the savoury shavige bath, lightly tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, green chillies, coconut, and peanuts. Comforting, familiar, very much in the chitranna zone.

On the other, the softer, sweeter version paired with kayi haalu. Fragrant coconut milk, sweetened with jaggery and gently lifted with cardamom.

Same base. Two moods. Both equally good.

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We looked around the place. A lily pond, a ring of rain lilies around it, and a lot of quiet.

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And then, colour.

Patches of pink and white cosmos swaying lightly, catching just enough light to make you stop.

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Zinnias in soft pinks, layered and delicate. A lone sunflower standing out, bold and unapologetic.

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The eight-acre property had its share of interesting fruit trees. Ashwini pointed out a karonda, sitting quietly among the leaves, half blushing into ripeness.

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And then, finally, some wings.

A small patch of plants turned into a gathering spot for Blue Tigers. Not one or two, but a loose cluster, drifting in and out, settling just long enough before lifting again.

We bid our hosts goodbye as they headed out for their vacation and set off towards Shivanasamudra.

On the way, we pulled over for a bit. A lone hill rising gently beside the highway, framed by scattered clouds and that wide open sky. Nothing dramatic, just one of those views that makes you stop without overthinking it.

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And then, the sound.

The falls don’t arrive quietly. Water everywhere, spilling over rock, loud and relentless. Sheets splitting and rejoining, carving their way down through green. Gaganachukki and Bharachukki, each with their own character, but equally relentless.

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I checked a ficus tree for birds. Looked promising.

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And then, finally, a Black-naped Oriole.

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Next to show up was a Red-vented Bulbul, busy with breakfast.

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And then, a male Common Iora. Restless, bright, never quite staying still for long.

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The birds took their time that day. But between butterflies, flowers, food, and the falls, it never really felt like we were waiting. Hope you enjoyed the post, would love to hear your thoughts.