Kokkarebellur - Hamlet of the Storks

Continuing from my last post, where a friend and I traveled 200 km in search of Bar-headed Geese, we made a detour to Kokkarebellur, a 300-year-old hamlet in Mandya district, about 100 km from Bangalore. Named after the Painted Stork (Kokkare in Kannada), this village hosts large nesting colonies of storks and Spot-billed Pelicans, living in harmony with the locals.

Here are some moments from this unique cohabitation!

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As we reached Kokkarebellur, the sight was surreal—Painted Storks perched atop trees, right next to village houses, completely unfazed by human presence.

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This unique coexistence has been observed for centuries, with the first historical mention of Kokkarebellur and its pelicanry recorded by British naturalist T.C. Jerdon in 1864.

"I have visited one Pelicanry in the Carnatic, where the Pelicans have (for ages I was told) built their rude nests, on rather low trees in the midst of a village, and seemed to care little for the close and constant proximity of human beings."
--Thomas Caverhill Jerdon

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Spot-billed Pelicans begin arriving in Kokkarebellur around October, choosing tamarind and banyan trees as their roosting sites. They lay their eggs in November, and the chicks fledge over the next three months before taking flight by March. We arrived just as the pelicans’ breeding season was coming to an end, catching a glimpse of the last few lingering juveniles before their departure.

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The livelihood of Kokkarebellur’s residents reflects their deep, symbiotic relationship with nature. Agriculture, their primary occupation, thrives thanks to a unique natural fertilizer, bird droppings (guano). These nutrient-rich droppings are collected in pits dug around trees, mixed with silt, and then applied to fields, enriching the soil and boosting crop yields.

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A Painted Stork spreads its wings wide, shielding itself and its nest from the harsh midday sun. With the breeding season just beginning, these trees will soon be bustling with nests and hungry chicks!

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Then, I watched the Painted Storks glide effortlessly against the clear blue sky.

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On the way back, we stopped at a field where a few Red-naped Ibises were actively foraging.

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Our final sighting of the day was a breathtaking Tabebuia chrysotricha, the Golden Trumpet tree in full bloom at Cubbon Park, Bangalore, adding a perfect splash of gold to end the trip.

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This centuries-old bond between the villagers and the birds is rooted in both cultural traditions and the birds’ unique preference for human proximity. Seen as symbols of good fortune, these birds are welcomed each season as they nest in the Banyan and Tamarind tree canopies. This relationship nurtures both the community and the avian visitors.

Caring for these birds is an integral part of local culture, passed down through generations. Children are taught from a young age not to disturb nesting birds or their eggs. The villagers, in turn, protect their avian guests, understanding their vital role in the ecosystem. The nutrient-rich ‘Guano’ from the birds is used as natural manure, enriching the farmlands. In a gesture of respect and coexistence, the villagers even refrain from harvesting Tamarind pods during the nesting season, ensuring a safe environment for their feathered guests.

This trip was a reminder of how nature and humans can thrive together when harmony is respected.
I hope you liked the post. Do share your thoughts in the comments!

Chasing Bar-headed Geese at Hadinaru Kere

Back in early January, a friend suggested a trip to Hadinaru Kere, a serene lake near Mysore, about 200 km away, to spot the majestic Bar-headed Geese, winter visitors all the way from Mongolia. Excited, I was all set for the trip, only to find out that the geese hadn’t arrived yet. And just like that, the plan slipped from my mind.

Fast forward to early February, my friend reminded me again, and this time, a quick Google search confirmed the geese had finally made their grand entrance. Without wasting time, we planned a midweek trip. Not only did we get to see these high-altitude champions in all their glory, but we also spotted a variety of other birds.

But the real stars of this adventure were the stunning Bar-headed Geese. Here are the pictures!

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We started at 4 AM, setting off under the cover of darkness. Soon, we were cruising along the Bangalore-Mysore Expressway, the road stretching ahead in the quiet of the early morning. My dashcam diligently recorded hours of footage as we sped towards our destination.

Instead of making you sit through all of it, here’s a concise video capturing the essence of our journey, both to Hadinaru Kere and back. 

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As we neared our destination, the sun made its grand entrance, bathing the landscape in golden hues.

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A little before reaching Hadinaru Kere, we were greeted by an unexpected sight, a peafowl family wandering in the golden dawn. We quickly stopped the car, hoping to get a few good shots, but the peafowls had other plans. In a flash, they sped away, vanishing into the grasslands. A brief encounter, but a beautiful one!

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Following Google Maps, we had entered Hadinaru Kere Lake as our destination. It led us to a scenic stretch of water, calm, picturesque, and… almost birdless. Something felt off. After scanning the area for a while, we realized this wasn’t the spot we were looking for.

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Just then, a villager happened to pass by. We asked him about the migratory birds, and he pointed us in the right direction, towards a park next to the lake, about a kilometer away. With fresh hope, we set off again, eager to finally meet the Bar-headed Geese.

On our way to the correct spot, we were treated to another delightful sight of a few Red-naped Ibises foraging in the fields. Their glossy black plumage and distinctive red crowns stood out beautifully in the soft morning light. 

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Before reaching the park, we came across a spot with a flight of stairs leading to the lake bank. Curious, we decided to take a quick detour and climbed up. At the top, we were greeted with a beautiful panoramic view of the lake, framed by a majestic old tree.

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The big tree at the viewpoint was alive with Chestnut-tailed Starlings, their chatter filling the air. I took a few quick shots before we moved on.

Our research showed that the Bar-headed Geese usually arrived around 9 AM and stayed until 11 AM. We were early, so we grabbed some quick nut snacks and settled on a park bench to wait. Meanwhile, Cotton Pygmy Geese were already busy foraging in the water. Though they were a lifer for me, my mind was fixated on the real prize, the Bar-headed Geese.

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As 9 AM approached, anticipation grew. And then, out of nowhere, a Purple Heron soared past, its graceful flight momentarily stealing the show.

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At the stroke of nine, I was all set to welcome the Bar-headed Geese. But before they could arrive, a flock of Northern Shovelers swooped in, making me fire my shutter instinctively.

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And then, right on cue, the Bar-headed Geese began flying in, gracefully filling the far side of the lake. Our wait had finally paid off!

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Realizing the geese were too far for good shots, we wondered what to do next. Just then, a young man named Swamy approached us, saying he knew a better spot. We asked him to hop in, and he guided us back to the big tree stairs we had visited earlier. A short walk from there led us to the perfect place to watch and photograph the Bar-headed Geese in action.

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For the next several minutes, we were completely immersed, watching, admiring, and photographing these beautiful Bar-headed Geese as they moved gracefully across the water.

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The Bar-headed Goose is a remarkable migrant, breeding in Central Asia and wintering as far south as peninsular India. It is famous for its ability to fly at extreme altitudes, crossing the Himalayas with ease.

Here’s a migration path I captured from Google Maps, showing their incredible journey from Mongolia to South India, covering approximately 4,500 kilometers. This journey is a testament to the endurance of these amazing birds.

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In between, I also captured some Brahminy Kites, including one perfectly juxtaposed with a Black Kite, highlighting their contrasting colors and striking presence in the sky.

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The Cotton Pygmy Geese put on a breathtaking aerial display, their iridescent green wings shimmering as they twisted and turned in perfect coordination.

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The Cotton Pygmy Goose, also known as the Cotton Teal, is a small perching duck found across Asia and Southeast Asia, extending south and east to Queensland, where it is sometimes called the White-quilled Pygmy Goose. Despite its name, it is more closely related to ducks than true geese. Known for its striking green plumage and compact size, this species thrives in freshwater lakes and wetlands, often seen foraging among floating vegetation.

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More bar-headed geese gradually moved closer, giving us a fantastic opportunity to observe them up close.

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By 11 am we called it a day as the bar-headed geese flew away to nearby fields, disappearing into the horizon. Just as we were about to leave, a grey-headed swamphen gave us a parting shot, elegantly wading through the reeds.

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I hope you liked the post! It was an incredible morning of birdwatching, and Hadinaru Kere delivered  with some fantastic sightings. To wrap things up, here’s a beautiful piece of elephant artwork I came across at a place where we stopped for lunch. 

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On the way back, we took a detour to Kokrebellur, a well-known breeding ground for pelicans and painted storks. It was a fascinating stop, but I’ll save those details for the next blog post—stay tuned!